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Whenever compiling a list of London’s best restaurants, one might expect renowned award-winning venues. Yet, nestled near the top among these food heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu located in a distant corner of north London.

A Surprise Honour

This compact Turkish spot, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the fourth finest restaurant in the metropolis by a influential gastronomic guide. This recognition has made the owners utterly surprised.

“I’m utterly surprised,” states the owner’s son, referring to his family’s relentless work that resulted in their small restaurant achieving such a high position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Charm of Simplicity

This little venue, which used to be a simple cafe before its change into a sought-after spot, has retained much of its original charm. It fits just over 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking performance, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate space,” notes the owner.

A Star Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is focused on the food, and this eatery more than excels. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a tender quality.

It is then thrown into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in gradually. When the savoury mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to absorb all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is rolled neatly inside.

It is typically eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a strong punch of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A leading food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is soaked in less syrup than is typical, giving it a deeper, nuttier and not overly sweet profile.

Surpassing the Giants

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant full for under £25, equivalent experiences at top-tier establishments can cost significantly more than that figure.

The Creed of Hospitality

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I don’t believe in that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is supported by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he were in a position of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London train at this spot as a masterclass, to teach them the dangers of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Path of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t train at fancy restaurants. “I am truly pleased of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to find their footing, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum would be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a social life but her friends would support her to help her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these roles forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

A Achievement for the Culture

The restaurant’s accolade is likely to have meaning beyond its own walls. “I believe a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the wider meaning of this gastronomic honour.